Field notes
Guides, recipes and stories from the road, written by the people who lead our trips.
FeaturedGuides · 8 min read
Walking the High Atlas: a first-timer’s guide
When to go, how hard Toubkal really is, what to pack and how to be a good guest in the Berber villages along the way.
Youssef AmraniMountain guide, Imlil · 7 Oct
Latest stories
Showing all 8 stories
Practical · 6 min read
How to actually see the northern lights
Forecasts, camera settings and why you should never book just one night in the Arctic.
Ingrid Solberg · 24 Sep
Food · 5 min read
Eleven things to eat in Kyoto before you leave
From yuba at dawn in Nishiki market to a bowl of nishin soba at midnight.
Kenji Mori · 11 Sep
Stories · 7 min read
The night the lions walked through camp
Our guide Baraka on twenty years of Serengeti nights, and why the tent zip matters.
Baraka Mollel · 29 Aug
Guides · 6 min read
Island hopping without the ferries
Why a wooden caïque beats the fast boats, and which Cycladic islands we skip.
Eleni Vasilaki · 14 Aug
Practical · 9 min read
Altitude, explained by someone who has carried the oxygen
What happens above 3,000 metres, and the simple rules that keep the Inca Trail enjoyable.
Rosa Quispe · 2 Aug
Stories · 8 min read
Walking the Lycian Way with my mother
Nine days, 130 kilometres and a lot of stops for figs. A traveller’s story.
Hannah Clarke · 18 Jul
Food · 4 min read
The tagine our guides argue about
Hassan’s grandmother’s recipe with preserved lemon, and three things he says you get wrong.
Hassan Ait Lahcen · 3 Jul
Guides · 10 min read
The Kumano Kodo, stage by stage
Distances, climbs and the tea houses worth stopping at on Japan’s pilgrim trail.
Kenji Mori · 20 Jun
Read it, then go and see it.
Every story links to a trip led by the person who wrote it.